Various types of odorous substances used in perfumery can be divided into three categories:

• odorous substances of plant origin;
• odorous substances of animal origin;
• artificial (synthetic) fragrances.

Plant scents There are either liquid, oily, so-called essential oils, or viscous, resinous, which include balms and gum resins. The French call plant essential oils essences.

Essential oils are not concentrated in any particular part of the plant, but are contained in flowers, fruits, leaves, bark, trunk, roots, etc. However, for each individual plant, the essential oil is concentrated in large quantities in some specific part of the plant. The strength of the smell emitted by a plant cannot be used to judge the amount of essential oils, since in nature you can find many plants that have a strong odor but contain negligible amounts of essential oils, and vice versa.

Essential oils are not specific chemical compounds; in their composition they are a mixture of all kinds of complex compounds. The pleasant smell of essential oil is mainly due to the presence of oxygen compounds.

The task of perfume industry practitioners is to remove non-odorous substances from essential oils and thereby increase the strength of the aroma. All herbal odorous substances used in perfumery should be as fresh as possible; you need to store them in a free, not too dry room and carefully examine them from time to time in order to promptly remove moldy parts.

From odorous substances animal origin in perfumery the following are used: ambergris, castorin (beaver stream), musk (musk deer stream) and civet (cibet juice). These substances are not perfumery in the proper sense of the word, but serve as an admixture to fix and distribute the finest plant aromas.

Widely used artificial chemical scents. Of these substances, some are synthetic products corresponding in composition to natural odorous substances (for example, vanillin, coumarin, heliotropin, etc.), some artificial substances give completely new odorous products (such as nerolin, mirban oil, etc. .d.). And finally, there are synthetic substances that are similar in smell to natural odorous substances, but in chemical composition are completely different from the latter; for example, ionone, neoviolone are used instead of real violet oil, benzoaldehyde and nitrobenzene - instead of bitter almond oil, salicylic acid methyl ester - instead of wintergreen oil; jasmone - instead of lilac and lily of the valley oils; nerolin - instead of neroli oil, etc.

The processing of artificial odorous substances into various perfume preparations is much simpler, faster and easier than the processing of natural products. This circumstance ensures the widest distribution of artificial odorous substances; in addition, although the price of synthetic odorous substances is quite high, it is fully compensated by a strong concentrated aroma, which can provide a greater yield of product with minimal quantities.

Using artificial odorous substances, high-quality perfume preparations can be prepared, but still they cannot replace completely natural products. Therefore, it is necessary to mix artificial products with natural ones, the aroma of which they increase without displacing it. Artificial odorous substances easily dissolve in the appropriate amount of wine alcohol, but it is still recommended that solutions and tinctures of flower lipsticks be left alone for two to three days for better dissolution. Particularly suitable are the so-called flower oils, for example acacia, carnation, hyacinth, cassia, tuberose, violet, etc. The best of these oils are artificial German jasmine oil and cassia tree oil, which already in a one percent alcohol solution are equal in strength to a strong solution of essential oil obtained from lipstick.

In contrast to essences and extracts obtained from natural odorous substances, we will call solutions made from artificial odorous substances tinctures.

In addition to the actual odorous substances, a number of auxiliary products are used in perfumery. These include wine spirit, glycerin, fatty oils, solid fats, etc. The purity and quality of these substances are essential to the success of the business, as a result of which all these products must be carefully tested. So, for example, wine alcohol must have a strength of at least 90-95°, and must be absolutely free from fusel oils.

The fat required for lipsticks must be fresh, without any foreign odor or rancidity. It is best to melt fat (usually pork fat) yourself at the lowest possible temperature with a small amount of alum and table salt. When the fat has melted, drain the transparent layer from the impurities that have settled to the bottom and, after cooling, wash it with water. It is advisable to leave perfume preparations prepared with alcohol for a more or less long time.

odoriferous substance

odorous substance (what)- ▲ a substance that has a strong odor; odorous substances; substances that emit a strong odor. musk. ambergris. balm. myrrh. eugenol benzoin resin, dew incense. osmophores. Odorology. tear gas … Ideographic Dictionary of the Russian Language

aromatic substance- kvapioji medžiaga statusas T sritis chemija apibrėžtis Malonaus kvapo organinis junginys. atitikmenys: engl. fragrant substance; odoriferous substance; odorous substance rus. aromatic substance; odorous substance... Chemijos terminų aiškinamasis žodynas

LUPULIN- an odorous substance secreted by special glands located mainly on the outside of the bract leaves of Humulus lupulus L. (in the so-called cone) ... Dictionary of botanical terms

Incense- an odorous substance for anointing or rubbing the body, embalming corpses, for incense (incense), etc. B. were extracted from plant (lily, rose, lavender) or animal raw materials, mixed with oil (almond, olive, nut) ... ... Dictionary of Antiquity

- (lat. muscus). An odorous medicinal substance extracted from sacs located on the belly of the musk deer; stimulant and anticonvulsant. Dictionary of foreign words included in the Russian language. Chudinov A.N., 1910. MUSK lat. mucus, Arab... Dictionary of foreign words of the Russian language

Skin glands in males of some reptiles (crocodiles, tuataria, snakes) and mammals (musk deer, musk ox, beaver, muskrat). They produce an odorous substance called musk. * * * MUSK GLANDS MUSK GLANDS, skin glands in some males... ... encyclopedic Dictionary

olfactometer- a device for measuring the acuity of smell. The olfactometer is especially common. Zwaardemakert is a hollow cylinder with pores containing an odorous substance, into which a glass tube with divisions is inserted: as it is immersed in the cylinder, it decreases... ... Great psychological encyclopedia

To improve this article, would you like to: Wikify the article. Odorology is the science of smells. There are several types... Wikipedia

It is almost unknown in a free state, but is usually found in solution in liquid or solid fats. Obtained by infusion or absorption from the flowers of Viola odorata. Most often, both methods are combined, and first the fat or oil is infused into the flowers...

- (squamae) microscopically small chitinous formations, shaped like plates and located on the wings and other parts of the body; in the hostel Ch. are known as dust. Ch.'s form can be extremely diverse; usually their length is longer... ... Encyclopedic Dictionary F.A. Brockhaus and I.A. Ephron

fragrant SUBSTANCES, natural and synthetic organic compounds with a characteristic odor, used in the production of perfumes and cosmetics, detergents, food and other products. Widely distributed in nature: found in essential oils, fragrant resins and other complex mixtures of organic substances isolated from products of plant and animal origin. From the birth of perfumery until the 19th century, natural products were the only source of aromatic substances. In the 19th century, the structure of a number of aromatic substances was established, some of them were synthesized (the first synthetic analogues of natural aromatic substances were, for example, vanillin with the smell of vanilla, 2-phenylethyl alcohol with the smell of rose). By the end of the 20th century, methods were developed for the synthesis of not only the majority of aromatic substances previously obtained from natural raw materials (for example, menthol with the smell of peppermint, citral with the smell of lemon), but also aromatic substances not found in nature (folion with the smell of violet leaves, jasminaldehyde with the scent of jasmine, cycloacetate with a floral scent, etc.). The creation of synthetic aromatic substances makes it possible to satisfy the growing needs for these products, expand their range, preserve plants and animals (it is known, for example, that to obtain 1 kg of rose oil, it is necessary to process up to 3 tons of rose petals, and to produce 1 kg of musk, destroy about 30 thousand male musk deer).

The most extensive group of fragrant substances are esters; many fragrant substances belong to aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and some other classes of organic compounds. Esters of lower fatty acids and saturated aliphatic monohydric alcohols have a fruity odor (so-called fruit essences, for example, isoamyl acetate with the odor of pear), esters of fatty acids and aromatic or terpene alcohols - floral (for example, benzyl acetate with the odor of jasmine, linalyl acetate with the odor of bergamot), esters benzoic, salicylic and other aromatic acids - mainly with a sweet balsamic smell (they are often also used as odor fixatives - sorbents of fragrant substances; amber and musk are used for the same purpose). Valuable aromatic substances among aldehydes include, for example, anisealdehyde with the smell of hawthorn flowers, heliotropin with the smell of heliotrope, cinnamaldehyde with the smell of cinnamon, and myrzenal with a floral smell. Of the ketones, the most important are jasmone with the scent of jasmine, ionones with the scent of violet; from alcohols - geraniol with the smell of rose, linalool with the smell of lily of the valley, terpineol with the smell of lilac, eugenol with the smell of cloves; from lactones - coumarin with the smell of fresh hay; of terpenes - limonene with the smell of lemon.

The relationship between the smell of a substance and its chemical structure has not been studied enough to predict the smell based on the formula of the substance; however, particular patterns have been identified for certain groups of compounds. Thus, the presence in a molecule of several identical (for aliphatic compounds also different) functional groups usually leads to a weakening of the odor or even its complete disappearance (for example, when moving from monohydric to polyhydric alcohols). The odor of branched-chain aldehydes is usually stronger and more pleasant than that of their straight-chain isomers. Aliphatic compounds containing more than 17-18 carbon atoms are odorless. Using the example of macrocyclic ketones of formula I, it is shown that their odor depends on the number of carbon atoms in the cycle: with n = 5-7 ketones have a camphor odor, with n = 8 - cedar, n = 9-13 - musky (in this case, the replacement of one or two CH 2 groups per O, N or S atom does not affect the smell), with a further increase in the number of C atoms, the smell gradually disappears.

The similarity of the structure of substances does not always determine the similarity of their odors. Thus, substance of formula II (R - H) has an amber odor, substance III has a strong fruity odor, and analogue II, in which R - CH 3, is odorless.

The cis- and trans-isomers of some compounds differ in odor, for example anethole (the trans-isomer has an anise-like odor, the cis-isomer has an unpleasant odor), 3-hexen-1-ol

(the cis isomer has the smell of fresh herbs, the trans isomer has the smell of chrysanthemums); Unlike vanillin, isovillin (formula IV) has almost no odor.

On the other hand, substances that differ in chemical structure may have a similar odor. For example, the smell of rose is characteristic of rosatone

3-methyl-1-phenyl-3-pentanol

geraniol and its cis-isomer - nerol, rosenoxide (formula V).

The smell is affected by the degree of dilution of fragrant substances. Thus, some pure substances have an unpleasant odor (for example, civet, widely used in perfumery, with a fecal-musky odor). Mixing various fragrant substances in certain proportions can lead to both the appearance of a new smell and the disappearance of the smell.

The expediency of using a particular fragrant substance is determined not only by the smell, but also by its other properties - chemical inertness, volatility, solubility, toxicity; The availability of technologically convenient and economical production methods is important. Fragrant substances are used in perfume compositions obtained by mixing various fragrant substances in certain proportions, as well as in the composition of fragrances for flavoring cosmetic products and household chemicals, as flavoring agents in food products. Complex perfume compositions usually contain several dozen individual aromatic substances and various essential oils (for example, the “Red Moscow” perfume composition includes about 80 aromatic substances and more than 20 natural mixtures). Modern production of aromatic substances is based mainly on chemical and forest chemical raw materials; Some aromatic substances are obtained from essential oils. The volume of world production of fragrant substances is about 110 thousand tons/year (over 800 items); in the USSR they produced about 6 thousand tons/year (more than 150 items); In Russia, the production of fragrant substances has practically ceased.

Lit. : Voitkevich S.A. 865 fragrant substances for perfumery and household chemicals. M., 1994; Kheifits L. A., Dashunin V. M. Fragrant substances and other products for perfumery. M., 1994; Chemistry and technology of flavors and fragrances / Ed. by D. Rowe. Oxf., 2005; Pybus D.N., Sell S.S. Chemistry of fragrances. 2nd ed. Camb., 2006.

Fragrances

By fragrant we usually mean pleasant-smelling organic substances. It is unlikely that anyone will say this about chlorine or mercaptan, although they have their own smell. When substances that smell in general are meant, they are called odorous. From a chemical point of view, there is no difference. But if science studies odorous substances in general, then industry (and primarily the perfume industry) is mainly interested in fragrant substances. True, it is difficult to draw a clear line here. The famous musk - the basis of perfumery - itself smells sharp, even unpleasant, but when added in minute quantities to perfume, it enhances and improves its smell. Indole has a fecal odor, but diluted indole - in the White Lilac perfume - does not evoke such associations.

By the way, fragrant substances differ not only in smell, they all also have a physiological effect: some through the olfactory organs on the central nervous system, others when administered orally. For example, citral, a substance with a pleasant lemon smell, used in perfumery, is also a vasodilator and is used for hypertension and glaucoma.

Many aromatic substances also have an antiseptic effect: a bird cherry branch placed under a cap with swamp water destroys all microorganisms after 30 minutes.

Any division of substances by smell is not very strict: it is based on our subjective sensations. And often what one person likes, another doesn’t like. It is still impossible to objectively evaluate or express the smell of a substance.

It is usually compared with something, say, with the smell of violet, orange, rose. Science has accumulated many empirical theories linking smell with the structure of molecules. Some authors cite up to 50 or more such “bridges” between structure and smell. There is no doubt that fragrant substances, as a rule, contain one of the so-called functional groups: carbinol --C--OH, carbonyl >C=O, ester and some others.

Esters usually have a fruity or fruity-floral odor, which makes them indispensable in the food industry. After all, they give many confectionery products and soft drinks a fruity smell. The perfume industry has not ignored esters: there is practically not a single composition that does not include them.

Classification of odorous substances

Odoriferous substances occur in many classes of organic compounds.

Their structure is very diverse: they are open-chain compounds of saturated and unsaturated nature, aromatic compounds, cyclic compounds with different numbers of carbon atoms in the cycle. Attempts have been made repeatedly to classify odorous substances by smell, but they have not been successful, since such a distribution into groups faces significant difficulties and lacks a scientific basis. The classification of odorous substances according to their purpose is also very arbitrary, since the same odorous substances have different purposes, for example, for perfumes, confectionery, etc.

It is most convenient to classify odorous substances into groups of organic compounds. Such a classification would make it possible to associate their odor with the structure of the molecule and the nature of the functional group (see appendices, table 1).

The largest group of odorous substances are esters. Many odorous substances belong to aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and some other groups of organic compounds. Esters of lower fatty acids and saturated fatty alcohols have a fruity odor (fruit essences, for example isoamyl acetate), esters of aliphatic acids and terpene or aromatic alcohols - floral (for example, benzyl acetate, terpinyl acetate), esters of benzoic, salicylic and other aromatic acids - mainly sweet balsamic scent.

Among the saturated aliphatic aldehydes one can name, for example, decanal, methylnonylacetaldehyde, among the terpenes - citral, hydroxycitronellal, among the aromatic ones - vanillin, heliotropin, among the fatty aromatics - phenylacetaldehyde, cinnamaldehyde. Of the ketones, the most widespread and important are alicyclic ones, containing a keto group in the cycle (vetion, jasmone) or in the side chain (ionones), and fatty aromatic ones (n-methoxyacetophenone), among alcohols - monohydric terpenes (era-niol, linalool, etc. .) and aromatic (benzyl alcohol).

There are a huge number of different odorous substances in nature, and there is hardly a person who could know all the odors. It is known that, for example, people who are far from chemistry do not know such odors that are well known to chemists (the smell of picric acid or formaldehyde). Our knowledge of odorous substances is still so insufficient that we do not have a uniform classification of odors according to their quality. There are about 50 pure basic odors, from which all other odors are formed through various combinations.

The Dutch scientist Zwaardemaker proposed that all existing odorous substances be divided into nine classes. I. Essential odors. These include the smells of fruit essences used in perfumery: apple, pear, etc., as well as beeswax and esters. II. Aromatic smells are the smell of camphor, bitter almonds, lemon. III. Balsamic scents are the scent of flowers (jasmine, lily of the valley, etc.), vanillin, etc. IV. Ambro-musky scents are the smell of musk, amber. This also includes many odors of animals and some mushrooms. V. Garlic odors: the smell of ichthyol, vulcanized rubber, stinking resin, chlorine, bromine, iodine, etc.

VI. Burnt odors: roasted coffee, tobacco smoke, pyridine, benzene, phenol (carbolic acid), naphthalene. VII. Caprylic odors and the smell of cheese, sweat, rancid fat VIII. Nasty odors are the odors of certain narcotic substances obtained from nightshade plants (the smell of henbane) IX. Nauseating odors, cadaverous smell, etc.

The source of odors are solid, liquid and gaseous bodies. Essential oils (the main odorous principle contained in plants) have for the most part a pleasant odor and are characterized by high volatility. Odors of animal origin are distinguished by their persistence: the olfactory sensation they cause lasts for a long time. Most of the odors of this group have an unpleasant stench. Odors of mineral origin are not cause a pronounced olfactory sensation and are predominantly indifferent. The source of odors are solid, liquid and gaseous bodies. Essential oils (the main odorous “principal” contained in plants) have for the most part a pleasant odor and are characterized by high volatility. Odors of animal origin are distinguished by their persistence: the olfactory sensation they evoke lasts for a long time. Most of the odors in this group have an unpleasant stench. Odors of mineral origin do not cause a pronounced olfactory sensation and are predominantly indifferent.

Odorous substances are highly volatile; they continuously separate particles from the external environment that determine the olfactory sensation. The particles released by these bodies are so small that odorous substances can emit an odor for a long time and lose very little weight. There is a known case where valerian root, preserved in a museum for 200 years, retained its smell. The extraordinary volatility of odorous substances, as well as the infinitely small sizes of the particles they separate, favor the spread of odors in the air. Particles of odorous substances are retained and absorbed by other bodies. Odorous substances are highly volatile; they continuously separate particles from the external environment that determine the olfactory sensation. The particles released by these bodies are so small that odorous substances can emit an odor for a long time and lose very little weight. There is a known case where valerian root, preserved in a museum for 200 years, retained its smell. The extraordinary volatility of odorous substances, as well as the infinitely small sizes of the particles they separate, favor the spread of odors in the air. Particles of odorous substances are retained and absorbed by other bodies.

The degree of their absorption depends not only on the nature of the odor, but also on the chemical composition and color of those objects that absorb the odor. Silk and woolen fabrics, peat, charcoal (especially in the form of dried, powdery mass) absorb odors most strongly; paper fabrics and paper absorb odors less strongly. Under the influence of oxygen, odors decompose. Therefore, in order to eliminate odors (deodorization), they use chemical mixtures that release oxygen, or a mixture of clean air with ozone. Heat and humidity favor the spread of odors and enhance their effect. However, humidity should not exceed known limits, since excess moisture weakens the intensity of odors. Material taken from the site: